I need to control the TV right now
Start here if the show is paused mid-episode and you do not care why the remote failed. These guides get a working button set onto your iPhone first and treat the hardware fault as a separate, later job.
Roku troubleshooting
Fifteen guides, one per problem. Each covers what the symptom actually means, the fix on the device itself, and how Auxility Remote takes over the button set from your iPhone over your home Wi-Fi — no pairing code, no original remote required.
Almost every "my Roku remote is broken" story is one of four things: the remote is missing, its batteries or contacts have failed, an enhanced remote has lost the pairing it holds with the player, or the Roku itself has fallen off the network so nothing can reach it. Those four causes need completely different fixes, and the fastest way to waste an evening is to run a factory reset on a device whose only problem was a flat AAA cell.
The table below is the triage step. Find the symptom you are actually looking at, read what it usually means, then open the one guide that matches. Every guide is written for a single problem and carries the Roku OS menu paths, the device differences between a Roku TV and a streaming stick, and the honest limits of what a phone can and cannot do in that situation.
| What you see | What it usually means | Guide |
|---|---|---|
| No remote in the house at all | Nothing wrong with the TV — you simply have no way to send it a keypress. | Lost Roku Remote |
| Remote is here, buttons do nothing | Flat cells, worn contacts, or an enhanced remote that has dropped its pairing. | Roku Remote Not Working |
| A light on the remote keeps pulsing green | An enhanced (point-anywhere) remote in pairing mode, still searching for the player. | Remote Blinking Green |
| Works only when you press very hard, or nothing at all | Battery contacts, leakage in the compartment, or a failed button membrane. | Roku Remote Battery & Repair |
| Works up close, dies from the sofa | An infrared remote losing line of sight, or a weak short-range radio link. | Roku Remote Range |
| TV is stuck on the wrong source | You need the input list, which only Roku TVs and the Streambar expose. | Change Roku Input |
| Roku is offline or on the wrong network | Network setup needs typing, which is painful without a working remote. | Connect Roku to Wi-Fi |
| Picture freezes, device is hot to touch | A streaming stick trapped behind the panel with no airflow. | Roku Stick Overheating |
If the symptom table did not settle it, pick by what you are trying to achieve. The four groups below split the guides by intent rather than by symptom.
Start here if the show is paused mid-episode and you do not care why the remote failed. These guides get a working button set onto your iPhone first and treat the hardware fault as a separate, later job.
Start here if you would rather fix what you own. These cover the pairing light, the reset sequence, and the range limits of infrared versus point-anywhere remotes, so you know which faults are worth chasing.
Start here when the remote is fine but the device is not: no network, wrong input, running hot, or refusing to connect away from home. These are device-side problems, and the fix is usually in Roku OS settings rather than in any remote.
Start here for the extras: driving several Roku devices from one phone, speaking a title instead of spelling it with a D-Pad, opening the hidden engineering screens, and what private listening genuinely does and does not do.
Pick your problem